The Vagabond Adventure Daily Journal
Where Are We Now?
Good to see you! Hope you’re enjoying the journey!
This journal provides you snapshots of our journey as we work our way around the world, never traveling by jet. It’s a chance to get a close-up view of the planet as we explore it the way people did 120 years ago.
Day 570 Figueres, Spain
At 9 am we depart the excellent Hotel Duran in Figueres. (Both hôtel and restaurant highly recommended.) Now we await the Teisa bus that will ( hopefully) take us to El Voló, aka Le Boulou (in France). This part of the world has changed hands with France and Spain so many times it must feel like a carnival shell games, never mind previous encounters with Visigoths, Romans and Moors.
Day 569 Figueres, Spain
Our extra day in Salvador Dali’s backyard allows Cyn and I to do some work. Cyn even squeezes in some yoga. We had planned to meet with Gaetan and Perrine the young French engineers, who saved us in Patagonia when our car broke down but now we have to postpone. We agree to meet two days later, which then allowed us to properly prep for our alternate route into France and explore the Dali Museum the surrealist painter designed just down the street.
Day 568 - Fire!
One night in our hotel at the Melodia, not a beautiful accommodation, but clean and VERY convenient to the Atoche Train station even if when crossing the eight lane boulevard to get to it means taking your life in your hands. We survive, board the train and rumble onto Girona, yet another short hop RENFE insists we take before getting on a local train that will take us to the little town of Port-Bou to catch another train to Perpignan and, finally, Lyon.
Day 567 - On Our Way to Vigo, Spain and (We Hope) Madrid
We make it out of our B&B and onboard our Portuguese CP Rail train passing through acres of vineyards, villages, and white-washed homes piled on hillsides crammed with pine and swaying birch. Through each small town the loud blare of the train’s horn split the morning air and corrals of goats and horses would raise their heads in alarm and then return to the stolid joys of munching their cud.
Day 561 - Goodbye L’Austral
It was dawn Easter morning when the L'Austral turned to enter the wide mouth of the Tagus River (Rio Tejo) and dock in Lisbon. The city's mercury vapor lights winked in the dawn as we drifted beneath the sprawling Bridge of April 25th (the name memorializes a military coup that changed Portugal in 1974). Then the ship pivoted neatly into its berth.
For the first time in 21 days we listened to the roar of overhead jets, rumbling trucks, and the urban thrum of the city beyond. The bow breaks of the sea and the high pitched calls of brown boobies were gone. Lisbon's white, low buildings burst bright as the sun rose, and their ubiquitous terra-cotta roofs seemed to open like flowers.
Day 557 - Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, Spain
After the red and black tugs haul us into the port of Las Palmas, the largest city in the Canary Islands (100,000 people), we find a city alive with long rows of tall hotels and apartment buildings gleaming in the morning sun.
This is the first time we’ve planted our seagoing feet on solid ground since Montevideo. We have half a day. Not much time, while the ship replenishes its stores. Everyone, including members of the crew, are excited to visit.