The Wall was a horrifying example of political suppression. I felt a sadness for Germany. Its people have been through so much. We think of Europe as stable and united; old in our North American terms. Historically this is true. But politically in many ways, the United States has been fixed longer than Europe. Germany did not exist as a nation until the 1870s. It suffered through wars and uprisings in 1871 (France), 1914 (World War I), 1939 (World War II) and was not fully reunited after World War II until 1989 when the Soviet Union collapsed and the Wall came down. It was such a powerful symbol of freedom and I remembered that Molly, my oldest daughter was in the womb at the time. "You'll be entering a finer world," I remember whispering to her. But it turns out not to be that simple.

We drove out of the Black Forest toward Garmisch-Partenkirchen. This took us toward the southeast corner of Germany, through farm after farm, vineyards, and great patches of green so verdant it felt as though a carpet had been laid there. In between lay large patches of brilliant yellow flowers growing more canola oil. This was the view for two hours, and then far away, we could see the white edges of the alps.

The Black Forest is legendary in the Western Psyche, home to Grimm's Fairy Tales, the Disney stories it expropriated (Snow White, Sleeping Beauty, Little Red Riding Hood), and Cuckoo Clocks. A place of surpassing and haunting beauty and many a scary story cooked up during a medieval period rife with superstition.

Baden means bathing in German. The town developed its double name because there are so many other Badens in its neck of the woods, particularly ones in Switzerland and Austria. So in 1931 the citizens decided to distinguish it by doubling up on its name.

The town's history dates back to Roman baths created 1800 years ago, at least partly to help Emperor Marcus Aurelius soak his arthritic bones.