Exploring Stockholm

Up and off to explore ... Located near the bottom of the country, Stockholm is Sweden's capital, financial, artistic and political center bustling with a million and a half souls across its small archipelago of 14 islands that sit clustered near Lake Märlaren a body of water that abuts the Baltic Sea. At one time the lake was part of the Baltic, but movements of Earth’s crust created a rock barrier that became so shallow by 1200 ships could no longer enter. The bay became a lake.

The 14 islands create harbors, one after another, filled with tourist boats, battered barges, and small fishing boats. Some have been turned into homes by their owners, tied up along the quays lined with steepled churches, high roofs of slate and solid cement, stone and brick buildings that are equal parts practical and beautiful.

As we amble ... cobblestone walkways, trams and cyclists, pedestrians and cars weaving through the big streets. People here seem to be determined and hardworking, but not stressed. They move with deliberate speed, but remain polite and follow the many rules of the road without the sort of resentment you might see in Manhattan or even London. It’s a bustling city, but not crammed with traffic, at least not during the September when we were there.

Deeper into the old city called Gamla Stan ... locals hang out in cafés and bars on the narrow streets, talking, watching fútbol games, unwinding after work.

The Vasa Museum houses the largest 17th century war ship in the world, resurrected in after it sank in 1628 in the very harbor where the museum stands. Worth the visit.

There was also the famous Nobel Prize Museum in the center of town and the Viking Museet, which doesn't look like much from the outside, but was excellent fun inside.

Aside from my own vague and youthful ideas about Viking myths and the belief that all Swedes are tall, blond and blue eyed, I came to Stockholm knowing little about Scandinavia. (Which was why were here.)

The Arab traveller Ibn Fadlan described Vikings over 1000 years ago this way: “I have seen the Rus as they came on their merchant journeys and encamped by the Itil. I have never seen more perfect physical specimens, tall as date palms, blond and ruddy; they wear neither tunics nor caftans, but the men wear a garment which covers one side of the body and leaves a hand free. Each man has an axe, a sword, and a knife, and keeps each by him at all times. The swords are broad and grooved, of Frankish sort.”

Tacitus, a Roman writer I struggled to translate in Latin class when in high school, wrote in his book Germania that the Swedes (Suiones) were a powerful tribe distinguished not merely for their arms and men, but for their powerful fleets with ships that had a prow at each end -- the precursors of Viking longships.

Sweden's history is long and complex and I'll write more in my dispatches, but if you want to learn about Sweden, and enjoy one of the most beautiful European cities I have ever seen, Stockholm is the place to go.

Photos: Vasa Museum and the giant ship; Viking Museum, the many harbors of Stockholm and its beautiful architecture.

Stockholm Recommendations

Our time in Stockholm was too brief, but we’re happy to share some recommendations below. You can see more recommendations from all of Scandinavia here.